We went to Argentina twice in 2022. First in March, just as the country was opening up again to tourism. And then, because we loved it so much, we went again in November-December. Every time I have been there, I've ended up chatting with people and becoming friends. It's the people who really make visiting this country a wonderful experience!
Here are our top travel tips for Argentina.
Language & General Info
You will find people who speak English, but if you’re off the beaten track it might be complicated. In Argentina things can be “complicated” and require extended discussions to resolve.
Carry a photocopy of your passport with you at all times. This is your identity document and you might be asked for it at any time, including at the grocery store when they want to give you the “senior’s discount!”
Argentine toilet paper is rough. If you have a brand that you like, bring your rolls with you as you travel. On the plus side, most bathrooms have bidets.
Currency Exchange (This
info will cut your costs in half.)
Argentina has two exchange rates: the official bank rate and the informal/blackmarket rate known as the “blue dollar.”See https://bluedollar.net/ to compare the rates.
Credit cards
In November 2022, the Argentine government announced that
it would bring the official exchange rate in line with the blue rate for
foreign credit card transactions. This had not been enacted while we were
there. Test the real exchange rate by making a small purchase with your credit
card and then checking online to see how much you were charged in Canadian
dollars.
The most economical way to live in Argentina is to acquire
cash at the blue dollar rate (see below) and pay for everything in cash. This
will cut your costs by 50%.
Getting cash
Western Union (WU) gives you a rate very close to the blue rate. Most
Canadian banks offer the ability to do Western Union transfer from their online
banking applications, or you can download the WU app to your device. You can
then send a Western Union transfer to yourself periodically as you need it.
Then show up at a WU office in Argentina with your passport and collect the cash.
There may be maximum amount you can transfer by Western Union each day. When we were there was a government-imposed maximum of $105,000 pesos (about $380 CAN) per day. Maybe you can send more, but we never tested it.
Some vendors or travel agents accept WU transfers directly. If you need to make a purchase and don’t have enough cash, ask if they will accept a WU transfer to a bank account.
Important Caveats:
- If your bank has two-factor authentication, make sure that you can receive a text message on your phone in a foreign country, or else disable two-factor authentication.
- You must show the
transaction number and your passport to pick up the cash.
- Check the opening
hours of the destination WU outlet before going there. Many WU outlets operate
inside stores or post office branches (Correo Argentino).
- The WU outlet at the
airport in Buenos Aires operates inside the branch of CORREO ARGENTINO and is
closed Saturday and Sunday, and despite the fact that the website says that
this branch closes at 5:00 p.m., the day that we arrived it closed at 3:00 p.m.
- Smaller WU outlets do
not always have enough cash on hand to be able to pay out.
- Others might only
have small bills so they might hand you huge wads of low denomination cash
(imagine receiving $400 in bills that are equivalent to 25 cents each.
Seriously, this happened to us…and nobody blinks an eye when you pay with these
wads of cash). Carry a bag into which you can stuff cash!
- These limitations are
more prevalent in smaller cities, so make sure that you have enough cash on
hand.
Paying in cash
Pretty much everywhere you will get a better price when paying in cash, versus a credit card, because vendors want to avoid credit card fees (and probably avoid taxes). Remember to always ask for the cash price (precio por pagar en efectivo).
Phone Service
The easiest way to get phone service and data is by buying a pre-activated Claro SIM card from a convenience store (kiosko). You put the pre-activated card into your phone and then add a money top-up (recarga). Claro will send you a text message confirming the balance on your phone and offering you different data packs (X GBs for Y number of days). If your balance is not enough to buy the data pack that you want, pay for an additional top-up (recarga) right away. Once you have enough balance, you can select your data pack.
DO NOT go to a Claro dealer to do this. They will require you to have a national ID number and it will be complicated.
Not every kiosko has these cards or can do this transaction. Some have limits on the amount they can give you for a top-up. You might need to ask around a bit.
Keywords
una tarjeta Claro preactivada
una recarga de xx pesos.
Whatsapp
Everyone and many businesses use whatsapp! You will need it to make restaurant reservations and to call taxis, etc. Install it on your phone and get it working before you go to Argentina, as your phone number has to be working when you install it.
Getting around Buenos Aires
Public Transit
Public transit is excellent in Buenos Aires.
- You need a Sube card, which can be purchased at a convenience store (kiosko). Multiple people can travel on one card; you swipe it for each person. You might have to check several kiosks to find a Sube card.
- The bus fare depends
on how far you are going. When you get on a bus, you have to tell the driver
the cross street where you are getting off. Use Google maps to figure this out.
It takes a little time to get used to doing this!
- Google maps works
pretty well for bus and subway (Subte) routes, right down to providing the
street address where the bus stop is located.
- Transitapp is
reportedly also good (and better for GPS location of busses). We didn’t try it
in Argentina.
Uber drivers prefer to be paid in cash (not what we normally expect). Go into settings and look for the option to pay by cash instead of credit card. Uber is not cheaper than taxis but is considered safer.
Be prepared to have Uber drivers cancel on you even after they have confirmed pickup. This happened to us frequently.
Be prepared that they might message you (in Spanish) to confirm that you are ready, with pickup details, to ask how many passengers, to ask if you are paying in cash.
Taxis
Taxis can be hailed on the street, or you can get the number of a taxi company and call for a taxi.
We used Taxiezeiza to book a taxi to the airport: + 54 911 4090 8580.
I was warned that taxis are not safe (ie, reports of being mugged by the drivers of taxis hailed on the street). We did not have any bad experiences with taxis.
Domestic Flights
You cannot book a flight with Aerolineas Argentinas online because you need at national ID card number and you have to pay with a credit card at the official exchange rate.
You can, however, book an AA flight through Expedia and other revendors. Hot tip: Set your location as Argentina and search in Spanish to get the Argentinean rate (Aerolineas has a higher rate for foreigners than for residents).
Or you can go to a travel agent, have them book flights for you at the domestic rate and pay in cash. We used the travel agency Almundo, which meant taking a huge stack of pesos into the travel agency.
Almundo Recoleta. Av. Santa Fe 1608. Tel. 0810-220-1031 (Extension interno 177).
Jonatan at the Recoleta branch was our travel agent. +54
911 5346 2920
Almundo.com.ar
Search flights, prices, etc.
Buenos Aires Lodgings
We used Airbnb and were overall happy with the places we stayed. Prices were reasonable at CA$45 to $100 per night.
Stay in the neighbourhoods near the sites that you want to visit. Mostly likely Palermo, Recoleta, maybe San Telmo. We stayed in Balvanera twice because we loved our Airbnb, but the neighborhood was not great.
Restaurants
At high end restaurants, expect to pay about CA$25 per person, including wine and dessert. Make reservations at high-end restaurants. As well as the famous beef, Argentine cuisine has lots of Spanish, Italian and German influences. You will see a lot of milanesa (veal schnitzel) and suprema (chicken schnitzel). Side dishes are almost always potatoes (French fries or mashed) and winter squash purée.
- Don Julio, Guatemala 4699, Palermo. We ate there in March just as tourism has reopened. Now it is pretty much impossible to get a reservation. Your best bet is to show up early and wait in line for a table.
- La Cabrera, José A.
Cabrera 5938, Palermo. Now having the same reservation problem as above. Of the
two, we preferred Don Julio.
- La Brigada, Estados
Unidos 465, San Telmo. This restaurant will famously cut your bife de chorizo
with a spoon! We were able to get a table as a walk-in.
- El Club del Progreso,
Sarmiento 1334, Centro. Beautiful dining room, wonderful meal. Betina gives
tours of the history of the club. It’s an amazing place with an amazing history
Bife de chorizo = rib steak. This is considered the best
and most flavourful cut.
Lomo = tenderloin. A more tender cut, but it does not
have the same rich flavour.
- La Gran Taberna, Combate de los Pozoz 95, Congreso. Spanish dishes and seafood are the specialities. I had one of the best seafood stews of my life there (cazuela de mariscos). You will be given an enormous amount of food.
- El Imparcial, Av.
Hipólito Yrigoyen 1201, Congreso. Spanish. We went with a group of friends and
shared a paella, then ordered 8 desserts that we shared around the table. My
favourite was zapallo en almíbar (winter squash cooked in syrup with a bit of
bicarbonate of soda, which gives it a crunchy texture. It was surprising and delicious.)
- Invernadero, Agüero 2502, Recoleta. A lovely tapas and cocktails spot
tucked in the shadow of the National Library.
- Perón Perón, Lavalleja 1388, Palermo. Charming and quirky place where everyone knows the Peronist anthem (and sings it heartily a few times over the course of the evening). A carafe of house wine is a pinguino that comes in a little ceramic penguin jug.
- La Ferneteria, Serrano 1349, attached to the Museo de Bellas Artes. The name refers to Fernet, a bitter herbal liqueur that Argentines drink mixed with Coca cola. It’s an acquired taste. I had a salad that was an explosion of flavour in every bite (on the menu, it was the one with the curry vinaigrette). Visit when you go to the Bellas Artes museum.
- If you eat near the Recoleta cemeterio, the restaurants along Pres. Roberto Ortiz are better than the ones on the Vicente López side. We ate at La Parolaccia (Italian), Pres Roberto Ortiz 1865 and it was excellent.
- Parrilla El Litoral.
Moreno 2201, Congreso. This is a tiny hole in the wall kind of place, but it
was just down the street from out Airbnb and we loved it. Have the bife de
chorizo and the bondiola (grilled pork). If you go to El Litoral, also visit
the nearby wine store El Franjamar, Moreno 2291. Owner Mariano gives great
recommendations and the wines are reasonably priced. Tell Mariano that we sent
you.
- Bellagamba, Rivadavia
2138, Congreso. Great ambiance and lunch specials. You are given a menu, then you
have to go place your order and pay at the cash. Beside the cash you can pick
out your beverages, desserts, etc. They then give you a number and bring the meal
to your table. The florentina was the best dish on the menu.
- Café Tortoni, Av. De
Mayo 825, Congreso. It’s nice. It’s famous. It’s full of tourists. Go see it
but don’t wait if there’s a line. There are plenty of other places for coffee
or a drink in Buenos Aires.
- Café de los Angelitos,
Rivadiavia 2100. This was a home base for tango composer and singer Carlos
Gardel. The café was abandoned but has been restored. It’s a nice little café
for a bite or a drink. The tango and dinner show is pricey. Gardel’s first home
in Buenos Aires is around the corner at Rincón 137.
Things To Do and See
Museums, etc.
- Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Av. Pres. Figueroa 2280 (resto. La Ferneteria), Recoleta
- Biblioteca Nacional
- Un Cafٞé con Perón,
Austria 2631, Recoleta. A little café attached to the Perón museum, beside the
National Library. The library was built on the location of the Peróns’ former
home. The café staff will give you a tour of the museum and research centre.
- Floralis Genérica,
Giant metallic flower sculpture that used to open with the sun at dawn and
close at sunset (currently having mechanical problems).
- Museo de Arte Latinoamerican
de Buenos Aires, Av. Pres. Figueroa 3415, Palermo. Rotating collections. Always
something interesting to see.
- Museo Nacional de
Arte Decorativo, Libertador 1902) Museum on a former mansion, showcasing
beautiful period furniture. (their resto La Croque Madame is very good. Reserve)
- Museo Sito de Memoria
ESMA, Av. Del Libertador 8151. North. Museum to honor the memory of the people
who were abducted and disappeared during the years of the military junta. This
is the police compound where they were held and tortured. Currently only open
on weekends. Check website for updates. http://www.museositioesma.gob.ar/
- The famous Recoleta
cemetery
- Jardín Japonés
- Los Rosedales
- The Hop-on Hop-off Bus,
https://www.buenosairesbus.com/recorridos.php?lang=en is not a bad idea
for getting an idea of the city’s layout. Get the two-day ticket, you’ll need
it. Buy it in cash at the ticket booth on Pres, Manuel Quintana 1763, near the
Recoleta Cemetery. They give you plug-in earphones but the cord is not long
enough to reach the outlet in the front window seat, so having your own long
cord earphones is an advantage. Click on the stops for descriptions and to find
out where the bus stop is located.
- Walking tours. We did
a paid walking tour with Viator. It was terrible. I’d try a free walking tour
next time. As the city is so big, most tours stick to just one area.
Tango Dancing
The best source to find out about tango dance events (milongas) is the website and app Hoy Milonga
https://www.hoy-milonga.com/buenos-aires/en
The birthplace of tango was in La Boca and the most famous street in the area is the Caminito. The area is colourful. The corrugated tin shacks have been restored. They were always brightly painted, with leftover ships’ paint. But the area itself is just so overrun with tourists that it is no fun to visit, unless really bad weather or a World Cup game is keeping people away. Go see it, but keep your expectations low.
There is tango everywhere, from the street to the theatre. Keep some small bills in your pocket to tip street performers. I never take my wallet out in public (a leftover from my Colombia days) and watch out for pickpockets.
Our tango instructor was Edgardo Fernández Sesma (contact info available on request). His English is rudimentary but he teaches to all levels and abilities and is very involved in the Queer tango scene. About CA$15 for a private lesson and he comes to you; it's less if you go to his place in Recoleta for the lesson.
We never went to any of the famous tango dinner shows. They are expensive (over $100/pp and you can see tango everywhere).
Music
Centro Cultural Kirchner, Sarmiento 151
Click on Agenda, Conciertos y actividades for a list of
upcoming concerts. Most events are free but ticketed.
Futball (soccer)
Live football tickets are expensive and very hard to get.
Find a sports bar, order some food and drink and cheer with the fans. Two bars
that we liked for sports:
- Locos X El Futbol,
Gral. Las Heras 2101, Recoleta
- Pizza Lo+Hot, Gral.
Gregorio Aráoz de Lamadrid 801, La Boca
Polo
- Polo season is
October-December.
- Buy tickets at the
polo field box office on the day of the game.
- Buy the cheapest
ticket available (which will be in the sun), and then stake out a table in the
field-side bar where you can sit in the shade and enjoy drinks and tapas while
watching the game. The cool drink among polo fans: Aperol spritz.
Feria de Mataderos Folk
market
There is a weekly flea market and handicraft market in the Mataderos neighbourhood. When you get off the bus, you’ll see endless flea market and low-end consumer goods and will wonder if you are in the right place. Ask directions to the música folclórica which is by the handicraft market, and food vendors. Folk dancing is hugely popular in Argentina and many people know the traditional dances and come out to dance in the street. This market was a find in terms of hanging out to enjoy the street entertainment and I even bought some handicrafts!
Side Trips
Iguazu Falls
The falls are best viewed from the Brazil side. https://cataratasdoiguacu.com.br/
Seriously, they are much better on the Brazilian side;
more water and fewer people.
Your entrance ticket includes the park bus. Don’t bother
with the “boat trip.” It’s expensive and doesn’t actually get you close to the
falls.
Across from the entrance to the falls is the Parque das
Aves, https://www.parquedasaves.com.br/
This reserve park rehabilitates injured birds. It was
wonderful. We visited at the end of the day, after the crowds had thinned out.
The park says it closes at 4:30, but my recollection is that 4:30 is the last
entrance and that the park is open until 5 or 6. To be safe, go around 3:30.
Patagonia
We visited two sites in Patagonia: El Calafate and Ushuaia.
The first thing to know about Patagonia is that it is pretty much always windy! Dress accordingly.
El Calafate
This is the place to see glaciers and icebergs.
When you take a taxi from the airport, get the taxi company’s phone number. There are no buses in El Calafate.
The main strip is all of tour operators and restaurants. All the tour operators offer pretty much the same things at the same prices.
The top tours in Calafate are:
- Todos los Glaciares tour. This boat tour takes you to see the Upsala, Spegazinni and Perrito Moreno glaciers. If you can only do one glacier tour, do this one. About US$90.
- Perrito Moreno Glacier. A bus tour to view this spectacular glacier from the walkways on land. Perrito Moreno is constantly growing and calving (dropping icebergs into the water). It is breathtakingly impressive. There is a good chance that you will see it calve while you are there.
- Hiking in El Chaltén (Mt. Fitz Roy). This is a long day trip from Calafate. If you’re interested in hiking, stay in El Chaltén as a base.
Other things to see in the town of Calafate:
- Reserva Laguna Nimez, Av Costanera Presidente Nestor C Kirschner 2075. https://www.facebook.com/lagunanimez.elcalafate/ This bird reserve was one of my highlights in Patagonia. I thought we wouldn’t see many birds because it was so windy….I was wrong! The reserve gives you a checklist with pics that makes it easy to identify the birds that you’ll see. About US$1.30
- Centro de Interpretación Histórica Calafate, Almirante G. Brown 1175. https://centrodeinterpretacionhistorica.negocio.site/ A very interesting museum about natural and social history of the region, including what happened to the indigenous people of the region.
Cabañas Nevis, Av. del Libertador 1696.
This is where we wish we had stayed. It was next door and
much nicer than our Airbnb.
It is across the street from the Distrisur Supermercado
(Casimiro Bigua 1-99 at the corner with Av. Libertador), the best grocery store
for hearty premade sandwiches and other supplies.
It is also right beside our top value restaurant pick, Cervecería
Artesanal Chopen.
Restaurants
- Cervecería Artesanal Chopen - La parrillita del Pueblo, Av. del Libertador 1696. Good food, good drinks, good value in a town that is overall pricey for what it offers. https://www.facebook.com/cerveceriachopen
- Panadería y
Confitería Don Luis, Av. del Libertador 1536. Café with good breakfast and
snack options and lots of pastries.
Western Union
Branch is located in CORREO EL CALAFATE, Av. Del
Libertador Gral San Martin 1133.
When we were there, this is the only Western Union branch
that had service, and it usually did not have enough cash to meet demand so
don’t count on being able to get cash.
Ushuaia
As we were not taking a cruise, we had to plan our own
activities. Everything departs from the Puerto Turístico, Av. Prefectura Naval
& Augusto Laserre. Or the bus terminus which is right next door, Av. Maipú
& Juana Genoveva Fadul.
- Hiking in the national park: Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego. https://www.argentina.gob.ar/parquesnacionales/tierradelfuego Catch a bus to the park from the bus terminal. At the park you can buy a one or two-day park pass. If you are into hiking, the two-day pass is worthwhile.
- See sea lions, aquatic birds, condors. Cruise the Beagle channel, 3 hours. 9:00 a.m. daily. Get tickets from the Puerto Turístico. The boat trip is not very exciting, but you’ll get some great photos.
- Go to see penguins. Magellanic and Gentoo penguins are only around during nesting season, November to April. All of the tour companies will take you to where you can see penguins from your boat. Only one company, Piratour, lets you land and walk around on the island where the penguins are nesting: https://piratour.net/. Go to the green Piratour hut at the Puerto Turistico, and buy your ticket for the next day.
- Penguins can also be
seen in Puerto Madryn.
Restaurants
- El Viejo Marino, Av.
Maipú 227. King crab is the speciality and this is the place to eat it. They
don’t take reservations, so get there before it opens and stand in line.
- Salitre Restaurent,
access to the restaurant is down the pedestrian stairs, Calle Onas 181 with
Gobernador Deloqui.
- Ana & Juana Café,
Av. San Martin 1485
The Western Union is located in the Carrefour grocery store. There is only one for the town and the line there is unbelievably long.
